We have a confession to make. 

Until recently, we’d been labouring under the misunderstanding that any reference to One Tree Hill was to that shoddy TV programme you couldn’t escape from a few years ago…it was only when we were researching a piece on the best views in London that we came across this, far more interesting One Tree Hill. 

Intrigued, we started to read more, and finally went to visit.

It’s a beautiful spot – the panorama of London’s contemporary skyline framed by leafy trees really does make it one of the best views of the city.

Did we also mention there are a number of other historical sites within the park, each with their story to tell?

Highlights of Your Visit to One Tree Hill 

The View

Is this the best viewing point in London? It’s a close contender, that’s for sure. 

Not that many people know about One Tree Hill. 

That meant that there were only a smattering of people when we visited a couple of days ago – most of them more concerned with walking their dog or recovering from the arduous run to the top of the hill than soaking in the view. 

And what a view… 

Sorry to diss spots like Hampstead Heath and Primrose Hill in the North but this is way better, it just is.

Framed by the canopy of the trees below and to the sides, it feels like a real-life trompe l’oeil – as if someone’s painted the scenery, thinking as much about the presentation and the composition, then hung it up for all of us to appreciate. 

You can see pretty much all of the highlights of the London skyline – The Shard, of course, and the cluster of The Walkie Talkie, Cheese Grater and Heron Tower etc etc in The City. St Paul’s, for centuries the tallest building in London, is there, and you can peep at The London Eye, BT Tower and a lot more besides.

Move position and Canary Wharf reveals itself, providing yet more eye candy for your viewing delectation. 

The Oak of Honour 

Despite the name, One Tree Hill is filled with many trees (it’s a wood after all)… but there’s only one that counts. The Oak of Honour. 

The Oak of Honour marks the boundary of the ancient Honour of Gloucester in the Norman times. This Oak, important because of its positioning at the top of the summit, was deemed so consequential that it gave the area, Honor Oak Park, its name.

Elizabeth I was said to have rested and picnicked under the oak in 1602 – the tree you see today is the third successive one from that oak and was planted in 1905. 

The Bandstand & Beacon

At the summit of the hill, you’ll find an octagonal viewing platform. Handy as it is for making the most of the view, it was built in WWI to mount a gun for countering Zeppelin attacks. 

That gun was replaced by a Seat of Peace after the war – now also gone – after which it became known as The Bandstand. 

Today, it’s just the concrete base left, well situated for you to clamber up onto and take in the views.

There’s also a tall beacon next to The Bandstand. Used to celebrate George V’s Silver Jubilee in 1935, it was last lit during the Queen’s coronation in 1953.

The Ecology 

Being a woodland there’s plenty for enthusiasts of nature to enjoy up here too. The best part of that comes in the form of the varied trees that really muddle with the name One Tree Hill. 

That’s because on this hill you’ll actually find quite a diverse range of trees. Most of what you’ll find are species of ash tree and sycamore. There are many wild cherry trees growing in the area also. 

Perhaps the most interesting tree you’ll find on one tree hill (other than the Oak of Honour that is) are the London Planes. Now that might not come as much of a surprise seeing as we are in London, but it’s more the story of how they got there that’s interesting. 

The London planes were put there when the area was cultivated into a park in the early 20th century. That park has since overgrown and become the woodland of one tree hill. The trees that were put there by people nearly 100 years ago have become part of the natural ecology of the place. Pretty amazing right?

A Brief History of One Tree Hill

Much of One Tree Hill’s history is unknown (or rather, unproven) but we do know that it once formed a part of the Great North Wood, which stretched from Deptford to South Norwood. What we call One Tree Hill today was owned by the Abbots of Bermondsey until Henry VIII dissolved the monasteries and it became the property of the Crown. 

Other parts of the park’s history are less clear. 

There’s the tale of how the Roman troops watched Boudicca’s army from the summit, their early warning enabling them to defeat the attack. 

Another one riddles that highwaymen used the hill as a lookout for potential victims, among them Dick Turpin. 

Then there’s the Elizabeth I story we referred to in the Oak of Honour section. The story comes up in several sources, although most were written over a century after the supposed event.

The original tree was replaced by another, which was struck by lightning. It’s now the third tree you’ll find, surrounded by a hexagonal railing and with a small plaque retelling the Elizabeth story, today. 

Later, by the 18th Century, One Tree Hill was used as a beacon point in the Napoleonic Wars. During the same century, the East India Company built a semaphore station atop the hill in order to signal the arrival of their ships in the Channel. 

People had been used to accessing the hill, using it as a shortcut at their leisure. There was considerable discontent when the hill was enclosed by a fence at the behest of the Honor Oak and Forest Hill Golf Club rented the land in 1896.

The disgruntlement fulminated in mass protests in 1897 and the creation of the Enclosure of Honor HIll Protest Committee who negotiated with the local councils until Camberwell Borough Council purchased the land for public use and reopened the park in 1905. 

That was largely it for a century. The 20th century was largely uneventful for One Tree Hill, with the exception that the site was used as a gun base for shooting down zeppelins in WWI. In the year 2000 a Millennium Grant enabled the tree canopy to be lowered so visitors could see the views once more. 

Practical Information and Tips

Address: 69 Honor Oak Rise, London SE23 3RA

Getting There: The nearest station is Honor Oak Park, you can also access it by local bus. It’s also on the wonderful Green Chain Walk – a 50 mile walk through South London’s greenest spaces.

Opening Hours: One Tree Hill is open 24/7.

• If you want to make the most of this incredible view, we recommend going there early in the morning. Not only does the morning light make London look especially beautiful, but there will be less people there to disrupt your enjoyment. 
• The busiest time at One Tree Hill is usually around midday.

Map

Read More Hidden London Guides

• Exploring London’s Hidden Gems
• The Secret London Park that Used to Be a Spa
• These Weird Dinosaurs Have a Very Weird History
• The South London Cemetery That’s Turned into a Nature Reserve

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London’s full of stately homes. It’s actually kind of staggering to think how much of it is still taken up by palaces, relatively speaking. Sometimes we get to thinking we wouldn’t mind a little bit of that land back…

No, we’re not talking about violent struggle against the ruling classes, that would be wrong, but perhaps the model of Kingswood Estate could provide some kind of framework.

This charming country house was once the playground of Victorian gentry. Now it’s a community centre in the heart of a council estate. That’s only part of its story – one that’s littered with interesting characters, not least the inventor of Bovril. 

Curious? We thought so.

Why Visit Kingswood Estate?

Kingswood House is a blast from the past – a frozen-in-time look at the upper-class splendour of the previous century. It’s also a community centre that supports folk in the nearby estate, making it a wonderful example of London’s ability to change. 

Visiting can be a bit troublesome though. You can’t guarantee you’ll get in if you just turn up. The place is used for community work after all. Your best bet is to see if The Friends of Kingswood house are throwing any events or contact them about taking a tour. 

You can do both those things here

The History of Kingswood Estate

Bovril Castle 

Kingswood Estate began life, as most all country houses do, in the hands of the rich. These rich man’s hands belonged to a fella called William Vizard who was the divorce lawyer when Queen Caroline divorced King George. No doubt he made a pretty penny off that. 

In 1811, Vizard was granted a 63-year lease on a tract of land in what is now a council estate in Dulwich called Kingswood. At the time it would have been woodland. Vizard set about building himself a house in the country and so the Kingswood House and Estate were born. 

Throughout the next hundred years, the lease was passed between the landed gentry of Victorian Britain, its most notable holder being John Lawson Johnston – the inventor of Bovril. 

J.L. Johnston had a thing for the grand and set about pimping out the design of Kingswood House, adding mock fortifications – a style popular in that era that would lead Kingswood House to be known by the somewhat mocking (to our ears at least) name of the Bovril Castle.

The End of Private Ownership 

During WWI Kingswood House became a hospital for wounded Canadian soldiers. A Lady Vestey, who was working there at the time, and who clearly had a gift for seeing past all the blood and the horror of war wounded, fell in love with the house and persuaded her husband to lease it, which he did. 

Sir William Vestey would become the last private owner of Kingswood House. 

In 1954 it was decided that the estate should be used as a site to build public housing and what was a private estate became a council estate. By this point, Kingswood House wasn’t in the best nic but the building was spared and the public housing was built on the grounds around it.  

They did so through compulsory purchase, stating that the house itself would become a public library and community centre, which it remains today… almost. 

What Goes on Today 

These days Kingswood House is the home of Kingswood Arts, a charity that organises free creative arts sessions for hundreds of families that live in the surrounding estate. 

Much of the interior of the building has been kept as it was before the space was taken over, giving Kingswood House a quirky period look. The notable previous owners can be seen in a painting in the main hallway and the king of Bovril, J.L. Johnston himself, is immortalised with a blue plaque.

But how about that library? Well, unfortunately, it had its funding slashed and was forced to close in 2020 – though there is some good news: In 2023 the council opened a new Kingswood Library just over the road. 

They also run a charming not-for-profit cafe out of part of the old house – a nice spot for a cuppa before having a nosey around the building (if they’ll let you take a look).  

Kingswood Estate: Practical Information

Address: Kingswood House, 54 Kingswood Rd, London SE20 7BN

Opening Times: Monday – Friday 9am – 6pm

Tickets: You don’t need to buy a ticket, just pop in for a cuppa at the cafe and have a look around, or sign up for activities at Kingswood Arts. 

Website

Kingswood House Dulwich: Map 

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London’s history never fails to pique our interests, and call us weird but that’s especially true when it comes to the city’s cemeteries. No really, hear us out. A lot of people have lived in London over the years and that means a lot of people have died here too. 

The places where they rest are some of the most interesting spots around. That’s certainly true of West Norwood Cemetery – one of London’s famous Magnificent Seven and the site of some of the best preserved gothic mausoleums in the city.   

Ready to discover more? 

Why Visit West Norwood Cemetery?

To have a look at a super-cool gothic cemetery – one of the finest examples you can find. Due to all those gothic mausoleums West Norwood looks a lot like a description from a Victorian horror novel. 

If you really nerd out on this stuff, know that WNC is considered to have some of the best sepulchral architecture in London. We also love it because (in spite of all the resting dead) it’s also just a very relaxing, and surprisingly beautiful place to walk around.  

The History of West Norwood Cemetery 

The Magnificent Seven 

The history of West Norwood Cemetery begins in 1960 with a tale of seven gunfighters in the old west. Oh no wait, scratch that. We’re talking about the Magnificent Seven Cemeteries of London. 

They are seven major cemeteries built in the Victorian era in response to the growing number of people in London, and the growing number of dead that population boom brought with it. 

The other six cemeteries are: 

• Abney Park Cemetery
• Highgate Cemetery
• Kensal Green Cemetery
• Nunhead Cemetery
• Brompton Cemetery
• Tower Hamlets Cemetery

The construction of these cemeteries was ordered in 1836. At the time the graveyards of London were overflowing with dead. Disease was rife because of it and there were even reports of bodies contaminating the water supply. 

Now surprise then they got round to building these new cemeteries pretty sharpish. By 1837 West Norwood was consecrated and was ready for use.

The Design 

It’s hard to imagine now but back in the Victorian era this land would have been largely empty. In fact the site the planners picked for the cemetery was actually a remaining patch of the Great North Wood – an ancient (and now all but lost) woodland that stretched from Croydon to Camberwell.  

It’s from the North Wood that Norwood gets its name. 

When it came to designing the spot it was decided that West Norwood would be the UK’s first gothic cemetery. The style was in vogue at the time and when combined with the fact the cemetery was then in the countryside made the place very popular. 

Many wealthy people of the era set their hearts on being buried at Norwood, and they  wanted to do it in style – that style being the grand gothic mausoleum. You can still see these on your visit today. 

These mausoleums give the cemetery the feel of a Mary Shelly novel (catch the place in a thick fog if you dare). There’s also loads of them. In fact West Norwood has nearly 70 Grade II listed structures on its grounds.  

One community that really jumped in on the whole mausoleum craze were the Greeks. They even bought a section of the cemetery for the Greek orthodox christian burials in 1842. 

The mausoleums in the Greek section draw their inspiration from Ancient Greece and are adorned with funeral friezes much like the mausoleums that have survived from the plague of Athens in the fifth century BC. 

In More Recent News

Today West Norwood Cemetery is considered a site of national historic and cultural interest (that means it’s very important). Though you can’t be buried there any more (at least for the time being) by the year 2000 there had been 164,000 burials in the cemetery.   

In 2005 some fine people decided to do a survey of the trees in West Norwood Cemetery. They discovered that one oak had been standing since sometime between 1540 and 1640. That would almost certainly make it part of the Great North Wood.  

West Norwood Cemetery: Practical Information

Address: Norwood Rd, Norwood, London SE27 9JU

Opening Times: Monday – Friday 8am – 6pm, weekends 10am – 6pm. From November to March the cemetery opening times remain the same but it closes at 4pm everyday. 

Tickets: Entry is free

Website

Map of West Norwood Cemetery 

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Words by John Rogers

Dulwich is one of the most popular areas of South East London, combining a village feel with the city’s multicultural and diverse populations. 

Affluence, education and religion have always been part of Dulwich’s history, with the College of God’s Gift, known as the “Old College” owning most of the land in what is now known as the Dulwich Estate. The college later established three exclusive independent schools in the area.

In the 17th Century, Dulwich was a regular hunting haunt of King Charles I before he lost his head (yikes). Meanwhile, several well-known figures were educated and resident in the area, including Lord Byron, Ronnie Corbett, Enid Blyton and Libertines star Carl Barat.

Nowadays, Dulwich is a property hotspot, proving popular with young professionals due to its villagey feel and proximity to the centre of London. 

There’s plenty for people of all ages to see and do, so let’s dive in and have a closer look at what Dulwich has to offer.

Things to do in Dulwich

Admire Art at Dulwich Picture Gallery

Believe it or not, the world’s first purpose-built public gallery is in Dulwich. The Dulwich Picture Gallery was founded in the early 19th century when Sir Francis Bourgeois bequeathed his massive collection of old masters “for public inspection”. 

Housed in a stunning building on the edge of Dulwich Park designed by one of the period’s architectural masters, Sir John Sloane, the Dulwich Picture Gallery remains one of the world’s best and most valuable collections of art dating from the 16th to the early 19th Century.

In addition to the enormous collection of classics that includes works by Constable, Rembrandt, and Canaletto, among many others, the gallery hosts a range of special interactive events as well as special accessible guided tours for those with disabilities.

Stroll Through Dulwich Park

If the weather’s good and you’ve visited the Gallery, you may as well cross the road and enjoy the sprawling outdoor splendour of Dulwich Park. The artistic theme continues with several murals and sculptures to admire and lift your Insta-feed. 

At the same time, the adventurous will love the enormous number of paths, trails and hidden ponds to discover.

For those wanting a more intense workout, bike hire to explore the park is available, while facilities include a boating lake, tennis courts where you can get your inner Sampras on, a bowling green for something a touch more sedate, and of course, a terrific children’s playground to let your little ones burn off some energy.

Visit the Quirky House of Dreams

Okay, think quirky and then double it. Whatever weird and wonderful avenue your mind finds itself heading down won’t even begin to scratch the surface of the madcap artistic creation of Stephen Wright in East Dulwich.

The House of Dreams is a project begun in 1998 by Wright in which he turned his house into an incredible space displaying art he created from discarded objects he picked up. 

Old dolls, bottle tops, false teeth and wigs are a few of the odd things he’s used to making some of the most eye-catching and thought-provoking – not to mention colourful – art pieces you’re likely to see.

The collection continues to grow, and Wright adds a personal touch with hand-written memory boards accompanying many pieces, recalling where he was when a specific piece was created.

Explore the Horniman Museum

This free museum is one of our favourites in the capital, showcasing a beautiful journey of discovery into different cultures from around the world, with natural history, pottery, armour and music among the 350,000 items in their collection.

Located on the Dulwich / Forest Hill border, Frederick Horniman established the collection as he travelled the world as a tea merchant in an attempt to give people at home the opportunity to learn about cultures and heritages from around the globe. 

The result? A fabulous place of exploration for all ages.

Catch a Dulwich Hamlet FC Game

Unusually for a club languishing in the bottom third of English football’s sixth tier, Dulwich Hamlet is a fantastic spot to hang out on a Saturday afternoon.

It’s not unusual for 3,000 people to cram themselves into their tidy Champion Hill ground, adorned with distinctive pink and blue scarves, for a couple of hours of football, singing and scoffing food and drink.

Dulwich has done outstanding work in the local community, championing many social causes, from helping refugees to supporting mental health charities, and is seen as one of the most progressive clubs in the country. 

There’s always a friendly welcome, and a superb excellent range of local beer and street food vendors, making for one of London’s most inclusive footballing atmospheres.

Pay a Visit to Christ’s Chapel

Away from the crazed hustle and bustle of Dulwich’s high streets and burgeoning cafe culture, Christ’s Chapel is a beautiful oasis of peace where you can sit and reflect quietly. 

Consecrated in 1611 by the Archbishop of Canterbury, George Abbot, the chapel is set within a stunning, quiet courtyard and is the perfect place to let the world go by as you recharge. 

The chapel hosts regular community events, while evensong and matins take place between September and July each year, giving anyone that enjoys the beautiful tones of a chapel choir an opportunity to sit and relax as the music washes over them.

Things to do in Dulwich: Eating and Drinking 

Megan’s in the Hamlet

This beautiful restaurant in the heart of Dulwich Village provides a charming fairy-lit interior and an ample covered outdoor dining space. 

With plush soft furnishings indoors, Megan’s offers a vast range of exceptional breakfast, lunch and dinner options with a Mediterranean twist for meat eaters, vegetarians and vegans to gorge themselves on. 

We particularly love their Mezze feasts for two, not to be missed on date night!

East Dulwich Tavern

This traditional South London boozer is sat on the corner of Lordship Lane and Goose Green in East Dulwich and is the perfect spot for a late summer’s evening drink outside or winter warmer. 

A massive supporter of the many local independent breweries, the East Dulwich Tavern provides a modern twist on the good ol’ London pub experience with a tasty range of bar snacks and meals alongside the area’s best choice of drinks.

Blackbird Bakery

Blackbird Bakery is an independent chain of South London bakeries, with their East Dulwich site one of the best places to get coffee, breakfast, brunch or lunch in the area. 

Set in the railway arches outside East Dulwich station, their range of healthy pastries and granola pots provide the perfect start to any day. Meanwhile, their light but tasty lunchtime options combine the best of New York, Paris and hearty British fare under one canopy. 

While you’re there, you may as well pick up some of their incredible artisan-baked breads!

What to do in Dulwich: Practical Tips

• Everything within Dulwich is within easy walking distance, although people that struggle with mobility may find some of the hills challenging. However, several local bus services serve the area and link Dulwich with other local hotspots, such as Brixton and Peckham.
• There are three National Rail stations serving Dulwich, with East Dulwich approximately 15 minutes from London Bridge and North Dulwich & West Dulwich stations around 15 minutes from London Victoria.
• Some cafes, pubs and restaurants can get busy, so it’s always a good idea to check before you visit. Although there’s such a vast array of places to choose from, you’ll definitely be able to get in somewhere.

Things to do in Dulwich, London: Map

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Words by Sam Jeans

The leafy south London suburb of Dulwich has the perfect ambience for a drink and bite to eat come rain or shine, so it’s perhaps no wonder it’s attracted some superb pubs and restaurants over the years. 

So, whether you’re looking for classic pub comfort food, drinks, live sports or quality beer gardens, here are the best pubs in Dulwich. 

The Best Pubs in Dulwich

The Lordship Pub

The hugely popular Lordship Pub on East Dulwich’s Lordship Lane offers top-quality comfort food, plenty of draught beer and cider and classic cocktails like Espresso Martinis and Bloody Marys. 

The area’s main artery, Lordship Lane, offers an abundance of venues and indie shops with a laid-back ambience – it’s well worth taking a long stroll down it after a pub lunch. 

The menu at the Lordship Pub can be defined as classy pub food, with crab, partridge, mussels and venison dishes backing up some pub classics. The Sunday roasts are great, and it’s always worth checking out the specials board for seasonal offerings. 

A quality beer garden tops things off nicely – a top-quality modern gastropub and one of the best-reviewed pubs in the Dulwich area. 

The Great Exhibition

Among the many East Dulwich pubs is The Great Exhibition, a modern gastropub with a terrific menu packed with pub classics, burgers and small plates. The lunch menu is perfect for lighter bites with some delicious sandwiches and classic sides. 

Sunday roast includes beef, chicken, pork and vegan mince and onion pie. Main courses are 2-4-1 from Monday to Thursday, which is excellent value. The venue itself is warm and friendly, and there’s an extensive drinks list. 

They also run a fantastic pub quiz, bingo nights and plenty of other live events. Friday and Saturday nights are often accompanied by live music. A delightful modern gastropub, if we do say so ourselves. 

The Rosendale

The Rosendale in West Dulwich sits inside a beautifully renovated Victorian building. 

This lovely pub has a fully-featured menu with stacks of pub classics combined with pizza – including incredible 20” pizzas, which you’ll have to share… Unless you’re feeling incredibly brave. Or hungry.

Their British charcuterie and cheese boards are fantastic for sharing, and they offer some innovative cocktails which further transcend the definition of a classic British pub. 

With a cracking wine list, an enormous outside seating area with heated seats and a popular Sunday roast menu, it’s easy to see why The Rosendale is one of the most popular West Dulwich pubs. 

The Herne Tavern 

Another superb pub in East Dulwich, located opposite the green space Peckham Rye, The Herne Tavern, boasts a classic British pub menu combined with some international dishes. 

The 1930s interior and enormous garden provide plenty of spaces to sit, eat and drink. 

There’s a kid’s play area and ample outdoor space, and the entire venue is friendly and comfortable – exactly what you need from a pub. A proper family-friendly pub venue renowned for its relaxed ambience. 

The Plough 

In East Dulwich, towards the south end of Lordship Lane, is The Plough, a traditional, friendly pub with an excellent garden. 

The dinner menu delivers everything you need, with burgers, fish and chips and pies. The breakfast and brunch menu is perfect if you’re looking for something lighter to enjoy on a sunny or not-so-sunny day. 

The Plough also shows live sport on its big screens – head here on match days for a rowdy pint or three.

The Prince Regent

A large Victorian pub, The Prince Regent offers comforting pub classic food, a great wine list and a hearty selection of local and international real ales.

The Regent burgers are a local favourite. Always check the specials, as they’re updated weekly. 

Also, keep an eye out for events like the pub quiz, life drawing classes, special offers on lunches and dinners, steak night and more. 

A proper local pub with plenty of authentic historical charm and a delightful menu – see why we love it so much? 

Watson’s General Telegraph

Dubbed one of the best craft beer pubs in South East London, Watson’s General Telegraph is beer-centric with a 20-tap beer wall. The laid-back beer garden is packed with sofas for chilling out. 

The food menu is compact but delicious, with the likes of burgers, hotdogs and a superb vegan jackfruit burger taking centre stage. 

Keep an eye on their socials as they regularly host events with live music and DJs, and there are big screens for major sporting events too. 

The Bishop

Towards the north of Lordship Lane is The Bishop, one of several outstanding Lordship Lane pubs. 

The Bishop nails the fundamentals with all your usual classic pub dishes and a highly-rated roast with one of the best vegan Wellingtons in London. 

There are tons of cask ales, international beers and a decent wine list. Last but not least, there’s a heated beer garden and screens to watch live sports – yet another warm and friendly Dulwich pub to make yourself at home in.

Dulwich Pubs: Map

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Words by Sam Jeans

With a golf club, art gallery, Georgian mansion and three wonderful parks, Dulwich is one of South London’s best-kept gems. 

But, we’ll let you in on a secret – the food scene is why we love Dulwich so much.

The neighbourhood’s restaurants cover practically every culinary base, from Japanese and Georgian to Italian, British, Middle Eastern and Mediterranean, to name but a few. 

Lordship Lane is a foodie’s paradise with around 15 to 20 restaurants within about a mile of each other – it’s the perfect place to launch your culinary adventure of Dulwich. 

Read on to discover some of the best restaurants in Dulwich.  

Best Restaurants in Dulwich

Rocca Di Papa  

££

Pizza, pasta and warm, homely vibes, Rocca Di Papa is a sublime Italian spot and one of the best Dulwich Village restaurants. 

The straightforward menu combines classic pizza and pasta dishes with some excellent insalata (salad), carne e pesce (meat and fish) and many other traditional and contemporary Italian dishes. 

There’s a superb selection of starters for lighter bites, but be sure to check out the seasonal specials, too.

And, as expected from a stellar Italian joint – the wine list doesn’t disappoint, with plenty of vino to choose between. 

Belair House & 1785

££

We imagine there aren’t many restaurants situated inside a Georgian mansion. But, among some of the many excellent restaurants in Dulwich Village is 1785, a bar and restaurant inside Belair House. 

The house is a popular wedding venue – we’re sure you’ll see why when you go. 

The swanky interior is true to the home’s handsome exterior. The restaurant itself serves authentic north Indian cuisine from Monday to Saturday and a modern British menu on Sunday, including roast beef, lamb, chicken, nut Wellington and fish and chips. 

Overall, an exquisite Indian restaurant, and Dulwich’s 1785’s unique setting only makes this spot more brilliant. 

siOn LONDON

££

A sleek and modern bar and restaurant with an impeccable interior, siOn has earned itself some stunning reviews in a short space of time. 

The cuisine here is dubbed Mediterranean fusion, and the menu is intriguing, with kebabs, wings and even KFC fried cauliflower. The cocktail menu is divine, and most are *reasonably* priced at £10 a pop, or thereabouts. 

Among West Dulwich restaurants, siOn is truly unique and is well worth a visit for food, cocktails, or both (preferably both). 

Park’s Edge Bar and Kitchen

££

Park’s Edge Bar and Kitchen is a cosy, inviting spot located at the edge of Brockwell Park.

This restaurant’s stunning interior matches its superb brunch/lunch and dinner menus with classic dishes like steaks and shepherd’s pies. Meanwhile, the burger menu elevates old faves with the likes of a King Truffle Wagyu Burger and Lobster Royale Cheeseburger. 

If you’re looking for something lighter, the brunch menu offers some excellent all-day-breakfast-style dishes like Morning Zen – a healthy omelette – and The Big Smoke, with hot smoked herring. 

Megan’s in The Hamlet

££

Megan’s offers a loosely Mediterranean and Turkish menu packed with mouth-watering dishes like open kebabs and grilled halloumi. Sounds delish? We thought so.

Megan’s in the Hamlet leans towards the Middle Eastern portion of Mediterranean cuisine with warming, spicy and healthy dishes cooked with fresh ingredients and served in a beautiful, well-lit room with appropriate decor. 

Coupled with Middle Eastern salads and seasoned chips, Megan’s is perfect for anyone looking for a little culinary escape to the Med. 

Franklins

££

Franklins has an apologetically British menu with dishes like pork belly, partridge, seabass and sirloin for mains, ham hock, rollmops and soup for starters and quintessential snacks like Welsh rarebit and Scotch Woodcock. The menu is extensively gluten and dairy-free, which we love. 

This award-winning restaurant is warm and friendly and has delivered many years of service to the local areas. It’s still going strong today – which says a lot. 

Yama Momo 

££

From British to Japanese cuisine without walking more than a few minutes down the road – Yama Momo is yet another superb restaurant down Lordship Lane, which hosts between 15 and 20 restaurants and cafes by our (incredibly accurate) estimations. 

This one won’t need much selling to fans of Japanese cuisine with sashimi, sushi, nigiri and tempura. There are plenty of hearty mains like grilled sea bass, truffle tofu and rib-eye beef to sink your teeth into. 

The chef’s special sushi rolls are always a winner, and there are plenty of appetisers, salads and sides. Easily one of the best Lordship Lane restaurants – and the competition is hot! 

Peachy Goat

££

One of our favourite restaurants in London, Peachy Goat’s trademark Italian-inspired vegan cuisine can convert even the most die-hard carnivores. 

The seasonal menu is 100% plant-based and stacked with healthy dishes, familiar options like plant-based burgers, gnocchi, spaghetti and some awesome desserts. The wine list is exemplary, and the venue itself is intimate and laid-back. 

A no-brainer for purveyors of vegan and veggie cuisine. 

Read Next: The Best Vegan Restaurants in London

Walter’s Bar & Kitchen

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Further south in West Dulwich, you’ll find the relatively new Walter’s Bar and Kitchen. With a compact and tasty menu, Walter’s has already earned itself rave reviews with the promise of many more to come. 

From the same duo, Matt & Rob, that opened Oystermen in the heart of Covent Garden, Walter’s delivers fresh dishes cooked with genuine, honest ingredients sourced from Britain’s land and sea. 

The seasonal menu is well-represented with seafood like oysters and cuttlefish with mains like Barbary duck, and rosemary roasted lamb – DROOL. While the venue itself is wonderfully warm and modern.

Kartuli 

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Another sublime restaurant in East Dulwich’s Lordship Lane is the fantastic Kartuli.

If you’ve been so lucky to try Georgian food before, you might already know about dishes like khachapuri and khinkali. If not, it’s time to find out. 

Kartuli’s menu is adorned with succulent dishes from Georgia’s unique corner of Europe, including a stunning wine list that comes with its own map of where each bottle is sourced from. 

With its fantastic interior and friendly atmosphere, Kartuli is elevating the status of Georgian cuisine while providing Lordship Lane with yet another wonderful place to eat. One of the most exciting East Dulwich restaurants. 

So, if you’ve been searching high and low for a Georgian restaurant, East Dulwich has you covered. 

Other Places to Eat in Dulwich

Utter Waffle

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Utter Waffle kicks the Dulwich food scene up another notch. These 4-time British Street Food Award Winners provide incredible sweet and savoury waffles in this wonderful spot in Dulwich and their famous food van Reggie which you’ll find touring various spots in London. 

The menu, as you might imagine, is packed with waffles. Savoury waffles like the Club Waffle are stuffed with fresh ingredients, or you can grab lighter, sweeter waffles for brunch – and there are some seriously indulgent treats for dessert. 

We won’t waffle on any longer… You simply have to try them for yourself. 

Spinach Restaurant Dulwich 

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With its eclectic and healthy menus, Spinach Dulwich has been making a real impact across its two London venues (the other can be found in Crystal Palace). 

The weekday menu is power-packed with fresh dishes like crushed avocado on sourdough. You can also choose a make-your-own salad and protein option by combining a salad with chicken, halloumi, steak, falafel or fish. 

Dinner delivers more healthy meals like fried goat’s cheese and sweetcorn ribs. Veggies and vegans – you’re well-represented here. Prices are also extremely reasonable, with most main dishes costing less than £10. 

Practical Tips for Exploring The Best Dulwich Restaurants

• If you’re looking for new restaurants, Dulwich delivers tons of options – too many to list. The best restaurants in East Dulwich are largely found in Lordship Lane, which makes for a pretty stroll.
• If you’re looking for lunch, Dulwich has got you covered. The cafe in the Dulwich Picture Gallery and Brockwell Park are both worth a visit. 
• Getting around Dulwich is easy courtesy of North Dulwich, West Dulwich, East Dulwich and Herne Hill stations. 

Dulwich Restaurants: Map 

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Words by John Rogers

Dulwich Picture Gallery was established in 1811 as the world’s first purpose-built art gallery for public consumption when Sir Francis Bourgeois passed away and bequeathed his collection “for the inspection of the public”.

The building, opened in 1817, was designed by Sir John Soane specifically to house Bourgeois’ collection and sits in the heart of Dulwich Village between the popular areas of Brixton and Peckham. 

Today, it’s a criminally underrated gallery in London and one of our favourite cultural hotspots. Here’s why you need to visit.

Why You Need to Visit the Dulwich Picture Gallery

Dulwich Picture Gallery is a must-visit for any art lover, particularly those with even a passing interest in the classics. 

Accumulated across centuries before and following the death of Sir Francis Bourgeois, the gallery boasts one of the world’s finest collections of Old Master paintings with a rich selection of French, Italian, and Spanish baroque works. 

In addition, the gallery houses British portraits dating from the Tudor dynasty through to the 19th Century.

Famous artists on display include Rembrandt, Gainsborough, Poussin, Canaletto, Rubens, and Veronese – a list that barely scratches the surface of the depth and richness on offer for art fans. 

It’s no wonder then that the Dulwich Picture Gallery’s collection is amongst the most valued artistic treasures in the UK. 

The Building’s Architecture

The art might be impressive, but the gallery’s building is well worth a visit for those who enjoy architecture alone. Its Jacobean-influenced styling blends with more subtle Classical stylings with vertical brick projections and pilasters on each wing. 

At the west of the building, the mausoleum’s deliberate shaping recalls a funeral. Urns on top of the structure, sacrificial altars in the corners, and sarcophagi above the doors provide the appropriate decoration.

Head inside where a series of arches link the original five rooms to create the feeling of open space.

Since the original building was opened in 1817, the gallery has evolved with additional rooms built in the early 20th Century – a beautiful glass cloister connects the old and new sections of the buildings.

Special Events and Exhibitions

Art doesn’t need to be a snoozefest: The gallery hosts the occasional after-hours event where interactive performances, creative workshops, DJ sets to complement the art, and pop-up food and drinks are very much on the cards.

But that’s not the only kind of event that Dulwich Picture Gallery host; the venue holds regular adult courses, lectures, and workshops (some of which tie in with exhibitions, others are more generally art-themed), as well as a range of other classes that include yoga, wreath making, and candle-making.

Your Own Personal Guide

While there’s plenty on offer for the self-guided expert to view, Dulwich Picture Gallery offers a rich and diverse visitor experience. 

A new audio-visual guide is available for guests via Bloomberg Connects, which features stop-off points as you tour the gallery with accompanying story guides, films, and insights from curators to enrich the visitor experience.

For example, you can find out who took the world’s first photograph and learn (spoiler alert!) that the gallery’s founders are buried on-site in the gallery’s very own mausoleum. 

Oh, and we love that Dulwich Picture Gallery also curates regular accessible tours. Including those conducted in British Sign Language, dementia-friendly guides, and picture description talks for blind and visually impaired visitors. 

The Collection Today

Dulwich Picture Gallery’s current collection heavily consists of a lively mix of classic landscape scenes and portraits. These are from some of the world’s best-renowned artists, of the 16th Century, all the way through to the reign of Queen Victoria. 

16th Century

As you’d expect, the earliest works in the collection date back to the era of Henry VIII and Queen Elizabeth I. The battle between Catholicism and Protestantism for religious dominance in England and Europe ensures the art is heavy with religious imagery.

The famous Bolognese Carracci family is represented by paintings ascribed to the three famous cousins, Agostino (The Last Communion of Saint Francis), Lodovico (Saint Francis in Meditation), and Annibale (Head of an Old Man).

Many examples of the British School of the period exist with portraits of well-known figures, including Dante, Martin Luther, Joan Alleyn, and Thomas Lovelace, on display. Religion also features a portrait of Piety.

17th Century

You can find many of the big names from 17th Century art in the collection, with several Rembrandt portraits, including the famed Girl at a Window and Jacob de Gheyn III, a Dutch engraver. 

Meanwhile, Nicolas Poussin takes on the baton of religious and mythical scenes, with The Triumph of David, The Nurture of Jupiter, and Venus mourning Adonis. And Peter Paul Rubens’s famous images of Venus, Mars and Cupid, and Hagar in the Desert are on permanent display. 

Famous faces of the time painted include Richard Burbage, the Kenneth Branagh of the period. He was the lead actor in the King’s Men who helped construct the Globe Theatre and undertook the roles of Richard III, King Lear, Hamlet, and Othello, amongst others, for the first time.

18th Century

Moving into the 18th Century, visitors can witness some of the best work of famous artists, including Canaletto, the Venetian landscape painter who provided some of the best contemporary views of London, Venice, and Rome. 

His painting of A View from Old Walton Bridge in Gallery 4 includes the painter, hard at work with an easel and oils on the river’s edge. Can you find him?

Thomas Gainsborough also figures heavily in the collection, with his portraits of the Linley family, including Samuel, Thomas the younger, and Thomas the Elder. Other faces captured by one of the world’s leading painters of the time include Philippe Jacques de Loutherbourg and Mrs. Elizabeth Moody with her sons Samuel and Thomas.

Religious influences begin to decline in favour of landscapes, while the increasing militarism of the time is captured impressively by Sir Joshua Reynolds’ An Officer on Horseback.

19th Century

The highlight of the 19th Century collection, somewhat smaller than previous centuries, is John Constable’s Landscape with Windmills near Haarlem. 

Though budding historians will marvel at the undeniably sweet portrait of Princess Victoria, aged Four, by Stephen Poyntz Denning, even if she is seemingly already dressed in mourning! Seemingly a portent of things to come for the infant princess.

As well as this, famous Anglo-American artist Benjamin West’s capture of his daughter-in-law and grandson, from 1805, features the chubby infant reaching up to lovingly caress his mother’s cheek in a sweetly-captured moment.

21st Century

In 2011, the Gallery bought its first piece of modern art, Walking the Dog I, II, and III, comprising three granite boulders carried by a glacier more than 10,000 years ago and stranded in Finland.

Known as glacial erratics, sculptor Peter Randall-Page carved the boulder surfaces with interlocking patterns reminiscent of the Greek key and meander motif. A typical ornament in Greek and Roman architecture, the meander is the same motif found on the frieze of the original Picture Gallery building.

Standing in the gallery gardens, the boulders are a fitting homage to Sir John Soane’s original building. 

Practical Information for Visiting Dulwich Picture Gallery

• Dulwich Picture Gallery is approximately a 10-minute walk from West Dulwich Station and North Dulwich Station. Trains run approximately every quarter of an hour.
• If you choose to travel by car, there is limited free parking outside the gallery on Gallery Road, while disabled spaces are available inside the Gallery car park. Simply get in touch with the gallery to book a space.

Address: Dulwich Picture Gallery, Gallery Road, London, SE21 7AD

Website

Opening: The Gallery is open Tuesday to Sunday, 10am to 5pm 

Ticket Prices: Adults – £16.50, Concessions – £9, Under 30s – £5 (sign up at https://dpg.art/under30), Under 18s – Free

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Words by Olivier Guiberteau

Bizarre, eclectic, and sometimes a little creepy: Welcome to one of London’s most unique art exhibitions. 

Stephen Wright’s House of Dreams, located on the ground floor of a three-bedroom Victorian house in East Dulwich, is an art project quite unlike anywhere else in this city – itself known for pushing the boundaries. 

Here’s what to know before you visit.

Why Visit House of Dreams?

With the likes of the Tate Modern, the National Gallery, and the Royal Academy of Arts – to mention just a few – London certainly isn’t short of places to see world-famous art. And don’t get us wrong, all excellent choices, but sometimes you need something different. Very different. 

The House of Dreams was created by artist Stephen Wright, who lives on the floors above this multifarious collection of weird and wonderful oddities, has been evolving since 1998 and has become one of the capital’s more peculiar, yet wildly interesting, art projects to keep you fascinated for hours. 

Walk around this outlandish wonderland and you’ll come face-to-face with dolls, mannequins, and mosaics. And just about every inconceivable item that, on its own, would be uninteresting – but all together creates a visually trippy experience that will leave you with plenty more questions than answers. 

The Story Behind House of Dreams 

At first glance, the House of Dreams may appear like the brainchild of a person who has taken eccentricity to previously unimaginable heights. But behind the truly extraordinary facade lies a touching story that combines love, loss, anger, and plenty of fun.

The friendly face behind the House of Dreams is Stephen Wright, an artist and designer with more than 30 years of working first in textiles, and then running his own design company. 

For nearly ten years, Wright’s own stationery company sold his self-designed products to some of the biggest names around. But, by the mid-90s, he had become disillusioned with the industry and was looking for a new challenge.     

Outsider Art Inspiration 

In 1998, after watching a television series on outsider art, Wright was inspired to begin work on a project that is still ongoing to this day and which would eventually encompass the entire ground floor of his home along with the garden – the House of Dreams Museum.

Outsider art is gloriously expansive but typically includes pieces created by those considered well outside the mainstream. Often in private homes or public places, the art form is closely associated with unconventional ideas, extreme mental states and, at times, worlds that border on the fantastical. 

If you’ve never experienced outsider art up close and are yet to visit the unassuming house at 45 Melbourne Grove, which Wright purchased in the 1980s for just £49,000, then you’re in for a real treat. 

After visiting countless outsider art locations, Wright began putting together his unique vision – starting with a mosaic face on the floor which was completed with the help of his then-partner Donald. 

Little by little, items, artwork, and just about anything that took his fancy began appearing at his home. The House of Dreams was coming alive. 

Devastation Struck the House of Dreams

Then came the pain. Just two years after work began at 45 Melbourne Grove, Donald passed away and his death was quickly followed by both of Wright’s parents. 

Suddenly, the House of Dreams evolved into a vehicle to help him process his grief. He created artwork out of some of his parent’s clothes, while murals and diary-like panels that spoke of his pain and the need to move forward began appearing – all of which can still be seen today.     

Walking around the house it’s easy to see it as a bizarre jumble-sale of weirdness, but peer closer and you’ll see it’s filled with heart, passion, and yes, plenty of oddities. Everywhere you look you’ll be intrigued, fascinated, and perhaps even a little unnerved. 

The many dolls that hang throughout the museum have more than a slightly creepy edge to them, but together as a whole, the many thousands of items that have been collected by Wright (or sent to him from around the world) fuse together to create a unique art experience.     

Quirky and Wonderful

The House of Dreams has been open to the public for 8 years now but with only a single day available per month. So it’s not always the easiest place to get into. Tickets are limited but do include a tour with the creator himself, who is more than happy to explain his glorious life’s work.  

As we said at the beginning of the article, London isn’t short of places to see art. But nowhere – and we really mean nowhere – comes close to providing the same kind of experience as you’ll find in the House of Dreams. 

We’re often constrained by what we have been told is ‘normal’ and ‘beautiful’ – but at 45 Melbourne Grove, you can throw all of that out of the window. 

This is fun, fascinating, shocking, creepy, moving… And just about every other human emotion we are capable of. This is art with a real difference and we’d love to see more of it.    

House of Dreams: Practical Information

Address: 45 Melbourne Grove, East Dulwich, London SE22 8RG

Opening Times: House of Dreams is open once a month – spaces always fill up fast.  

Tickets: £12 for adults, £7 for students

Website

House of Dreams London: Map   

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